Mary in Vancity

here’s a new reason to head to Vancouver’s Chinatown, and it smells like the ocean in the best possible way. I attended the media preview for UCHU Cevicheria & Raw Bar, and from the first sip of pisco to the last bite of dessert, it’s clear this opening is something special. Led by Chef and Owner Ricardo Valverde, UCHU is a modern cevicheria rooted in Peruvian coastal traditions, with Japanese and global influences woven throughout the menu.

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Fresh seafood is the anchor here, presented with precision and creativity. The menu moves confidently through vibrant ceviches, delicate tiraditos, Nikkei-style sushi, and updated cevicheria classics. One of the most memorable dishes of the night was the Bluefin Tuna & Crab Causa, a layered, visually striking plate that delivered both elegance and comfort. The Scallop Batayaki was another standout. Inspired by classic Conchitas a la Parmesana, it leans Japanese-Italian with sushi rice, garlic, parmesan, aji amarillo aioli, and bright hits of yuzu. It’s warm, indulgent, and deeply satisfying.

For those who want to experience the full breadth of Peru’s coastline, the Torre del Mar is the showstopper. This two-course seafood tower takes you on a journey from northern to southern Peru, and it’s designed to be shared, lingered over, and talked about. It’s the kind of dish that turns dinner into an event.

The mains continue that balance between sea and land. The Jalea Mixta arrives generous and unapologetic, featuring a whole fried sea bream alongside prawns, calamari, yuca, and smoked aioli. Then there’s the Tallarín Saltado, a hallmark of Chifa cuisine that showcases the fusion of Peruvian and Chinese traditions. Wok-fired spaghetti or linguine is tossed with marinated beef tenderloin, resulting in a smoky, flavour-packed dish that feels both familiar and exciting. It’s comfort food with serious swagger.

Dessert brings a playful finish. Arroz con Leche is reimagined with White Rabbit ice cream, while the classic street food favourite, Picarones, delivers exactly what you want at the end of the meal. Sweet, indulgent, and meant to be shared.

The cocktail program deserves its own spotlight. Rooted in Peruvian cocktail culture, pisco takes centre stage, supported by a thoughtful lineup of elevated classics. From the citrus-forward Pisco Sour to the toasted coconut notes of the Agridulce and the earthy depth of the Emolienteros, the drinks are expressive without overpowering the food. Spirit-free options are given the same level of care, making the bar welcoming to everyone. The wine list travels through the Americas, starting in British Columbia and stretching south through Peru and beyond, balancing approachable bottles with cellar-worthy selections.

UCHU is housed in the former Sai Woo space, and the design is a quiet stunner. Local firm Evoke has created a warm, intimate dining room for 68 guests, anchored by an open kitchen and a central raw bar that puts seafood front and centre. Ocean blues ripple through the upholstery, warm wood tones ground the space, and sand-coloured tiles keep everything light. Original beams and red brick remain, tying the restaurant to Chinatown’s history. The branding, led by Enfant Terrible, draws from Peru’s rugged coastline and the movement of water, reinforcing the sense of calm and intention throughout the room.

Behind the scenes, a strong hospitality team brings it all together. Co-owners James Reynolds and Felix Ng oversee operations, Michel Durocher leads wine and front-of-house, Chef de Cuisine Owen Chen runs the kitchen, Pastry Chef Jerrica Aggabao handles desserts for both SUYO and UCHU, and Bar Manager Erdem Telli shapes a beverage program that feels seamless with the food.

“UCHU, a modern cevicheria, is the place where we will celebrate the bounty of the oceans,” says Valverde. Guided by sustainability and respect for ingredients, that philosophy is evident in every dish.

UCHU officially opened on February 6 and will be serving dinner Tuesday through Saturday from 5:00 to 10:00 pm. Reservations are available via OpenTable.

If you’re looking for a restaurant that combines serious technique with warmth, intention, and a true sense of place, this one belongs on your list.